Friday, December 16, 2022

What Gap Inc. Can Learn From Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos

Source: CNBC

For years, Gap has struggled with a muddled corporate strategy.  Three of the company's four major brands (Old Navy, Gap, and Banana Republic) have blurred competitive positions.  Thus, they focus on overlapping target markets with product offerings that are not clearly distinguishable at times.  They cannibalize each other's sales far too often.  Moreover, while Old Navy has a clear low-cost positioning, and Banana Republic tries to be a differentiator, Gap has remained "stuck in the middle" for years... not clear about whether it's trying to compete on price or achieve higher willingness to pay, and not clear about whether it's a basics brand or a fashion retailer. 

I think Gap could learn a great deal from the turnaround led by CEO Gina Drosos at Signet Jewelers.  Her company owns several major jewelry chain brands (Zales, Kay, Jared).   Fortune recently profiled Drosos and her work improving performance at Signet.  Here's an excerpt from the article by Phil Wahba:

The Signet empire may not always be trendy, but it has considerably more momentum these days than it did when Drosos, the company’s first female CEO, took the helm. Not so long ago, it was not nearly as clear cut what purpose each of Signet’s three biggest chains were most suitable for. Indeed, as Signet fell into a rut during the 2010s, its biggest banners cannibalized each other and started to become almost indistinguishable. Drosos recalls a time when any sales event at Zales would mean a corresponding drop in business at Kay, a problem made all the worse given that the chains often operated rival stores within yards of each other at the same tired malls. “We had all of our banners pretty much on top of each other in the middle tier,” says Drosos.

Now each of the three major brands focuses on different occasions, customer needs, and price points.  The company still faces major challenges given its reliance on brick-and-mortar retailing with a heavy dependence on mall customers.   However, Signet has made some moves to enhance its online presence, including the acquisition of Blue Nile.  More work remains to be done if Signet will survive and thrive given the decline of malls in the United States. 

Of course, to make all this happen, Drosos had to change a toxic culture and address the fallout from a sexual harassment scandal involving a prior CEO.  Here's another excerpt: 

Drosos has also begun to change Signet’s culture—by making sure shell-shocked employees, primarily women, feel heard and included and are willing to buy into management’s vision, and dramatically overhauling the board... The toxic culture went beyond rampant misbehavior: It also took the form of a quasi-autocratic approach to business in which the bosses, disproportionately men, didn’t listen to what people in the field, the predominantly female frontline Signet workers, were seeing. Drosos, says that as a board member from 2012, she had always pushed for Signet to diversify its workforce and culture. When she became CEO, she says, the board told her to accelerate that effort.

The transformation of the culture, naturally, is key to this turnaround.  You cannot design and execute a new strategy without great ideas from people at all levels.  If you don't create an environment where people feel safe speaking up and sharing their ideas, you can't develop a winning strategy in a very challenging competitive landscape. 


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